A Major Shift

Stayed at the Farewell Bend state park on the Snake River last night and, man, was it windy! Beautiful scene, though, since the river widens out and almost looks like a lake at that point. Unfortunately, the library computer I'm using won't let me upload photos. Also, I have made a pretty serious change in route. Since my knees have been hurting I have decided to avoid going over the Rockies and am now going around them. I'll be traveling through Boise, ID and on east through the southern end of the state and then into Wyoming. This path around the mountains allows me to avoid serious knee-busting hill climbs and will also save me a couple of hundred miles. I'm now in the town of Ontario, OR (the "other" Ontario) and hope to make it to Boise tonight or tomorrow. The one trade off in this plan is that I'll have to spend some time riding on interstate highway 84. I've covered about 40 miles on it so far and it's actually been pretty good. There are nice, wide shoulders and lots of places to stop for food. I guess it's a small price to pay to avoid possible knee surgery! Hopefully the next computer will allow me to upload photos....

Total mileage so far: 634.

Please consider making a small donation to help cancer survivors (sadly, my mom was not one of them) http://www.livestrong.org/grassroots2008/steveonhisbike

Making Passes

After surviving the cattle drive, I visited the John Day Fossil Beds and got a great introduction to the wealth of finds in the area. Then on to Dayville, OR where the local Presbyterian church doubles as a hostel for travelling cyclists. They provide showers, laundry and kitchen facilities and a sign encourages visitors to lay their sleeping bags out in the sanctuary (but please don't use the pew cushions). I then headed east to Prairie City for dinner at the Branding Iron restaurant. Today was a particularly tough day since I had to ride over not one or even two but THREE long and steep mountain passes! I got an early start and was grinding up Dixie Pass for 9 miles. Once at the top, it started drizzling and the rest of the day, over two more 5,000+ foot passes, I rode through rain and thunderstorms. The up side of this was that it was cooler and I didn't have to worry about getting sunburn. After the mountain passes I still had about 30 miles to ride into Baker City, OR but I took a break to stop and see the Sumpter Valley Railroad - a working steam locomotive from 1920! Finally got into Baker City to find that they were in the middle of hosting a professional bike race! After nearly 70 miles of riding I was greeting by teams of guys in colorful Lycra racing outfits and some of the slickest road bikes I'd ever seen. Sadly, the last race of the day was called on account of rain so I didn't actually get to see any racing. Perhaps tomorrow.

Total mileage so far: 548.

Please consider making a small donation to help cancer survivors (sadly, my mom was not one of them):http://www.livestrong.org/grassroots2008/steveonhisbike

Coast-To-Ghost?

After my rest days in Bend, OR, (and the purchase of an ankle support at a local drugstore) I was feeling better and headed out again. Made it through the town of Prineville, OR where I stopped to see the Bowman Museum. This free attraction highlights the history of settlers in Oregon and the eventual establishment of towns and cities. There were some great exhibits including old maps, six-shooters, railroad photos and family histories. I then stopped for the night at the Ochoco Reservoir state park and met a few other cyclists who were heading my way. In continuing the "old west" theme, we rode together the next day across the Ochoco Pass and into the former stagecoach stop town of Mitchell, OR. This "living ghost town" still has some very old buildings. Also, when I ordered breakfast at the one cafe in town, they apologized that they didn't have any bacon or potatoes because the weekly delivery truck was running late! Now THAT'S remote. On the way down from the 4,369 foot Keys Creek Pass I encountered a unique type of traffic jam. I just got off my bike and watched about 250 head of cattle cross the road. Most of them didn't pay me any attention but just mooed their way from one pasture to the other. Tonight I'm staying at a rather unique place. The Presbyterian Church in Dayville, OR is open to passing cyclists and allows them to sleep in the sanctuary! They also have a shower and laundry facilities. Should be a quiet night....

Total mileage so far: 436.

Please consider making a small donation to help cancer survivors (sadly, my mom was not one of them):http://www.livestrong.org/grassroots2008/steveonhisbike

A Friend In Bend

After finding that all the campsites in Sisters were full of rodeo folks, I decided to continue on to Bend, another 21 miles of mostly flat (whew!) riding. I stayed at the Tumelo State Park campground which had a sign out front saying "No Vacancy" so I was initially resigned to going around and begging for someone to let me share their campsite. However, a ranger came up to me and said "the hiker/biker campsite is over there and it's empty." It seems most parks out here have this special section which is close to the entrance but does not have room to pull up a car or truck and is only available for folks like me who have no vehicle. Wow! Add this to the list of joys of being a cyclist - special VIP treatment at campgrounds! The next morning I got in touch with Dan Rutherford, the brother of a good friend that I used to work with. Dan and his wife Doreen and daughters Lillian and Julia, live about 20 miles south of Bend and so were too far off my route. However, they happen to be in town on Sunday for church and offered to get together with me for lunch. We wound up having a great time and they showed me around the old mill district with its beautiful park, lazy flowing river and great shops. Dan has travelled all around these parts by motorcycle and so was a great source of information for planning the next phase of my trip. After lunch, I got a tour of downtown Bend and then they helped me find a rather interesting bed & breakfast. I've decided to stay in Bend for a couple of days since my right Achilles tendon has been hurting a bit and I figure a couple of days rest and Advil will help. Turns out the owner grew up in Brooklyn, NY about one mile from me so we hit it off right away! Go figure! Today I'm taking it easy and browsing around town. Tomorrow I should be back on track and heading towards eastern Oregon.

Total mileage so far: 323.

Please consider making a small donation to help cancer survivors (sadly, my mom was not one of them):
http://www.livestrong.org/grassroots2008/steveonhisbike

Crossing The Cascades

This photo of my bike was obtained at great risk to life and limb! Yesterday was one of the toughest cycling days of my life! I rode a total of 46 miles and about 32 of them were straight uphill with 60 lbs of gear! Every time I kept thinking I was getting close to the top I'd round a corner and it would just keep on going up, up and up! At one point my front tire blew out sounding like a gunshot (probably from the altitude and being stressed by laying the bike on its side) so I had my first road repair of the trip to contend with on top of everything else. Still, I was surrounded by beautiful scenery and the smell of all the pine trees reminded me of Christmas. In fact, at one point there were reindeer circling overhead - or maybe they were buzzards, I'm not sure since I was nearly delirious. Anyway, I eventually got to the top and was FINALLY screaming downhill with the wind in my face. I then found, in the middle of nowhere, a very unexpected and lovely lakeside resort with an open restaurant. What a contrast to the rest of the day! I can't imagine what the front-desk hostess must have thought seeing me sweaty and gritty and walking into this swanky joint. But, somehow, this grueling day ended with a gourmet dinner and watching the sunset over a beautiful mountain lake! Go figure. Today I'm in the town of Sisters, OR where they are hosting the 20th annual Sisters Rodeo. The town is packed solid so I may not find a campsite here. We'll see what the rest of the day will bring.... Total mileage so far: 282.

Please consider making a small donation to help cancer survivors (sadly, my mom was not one of them):

http://www.livestrong.org/grassroots2008/steveonhisbike

Finally Heading East (sort of)

After leaving Pacific City I headed east around the Coastal Range mountains to the town of Grand Ronde. Not much there except a casino so headed south towards Eugene, OR. Why south? I don't know but the Adventure Cycling maps have blessed this as the great "TransAmerica" bicycle route so who am I to question.... Actually, I did wind up questioning after a stop at the Peak bicycle shop in Corvallis, OR. The magicians at this shop, Dayne (right), Eric (left) and others, helped me fit my bike with a lower gear in the front to help me get over the mountains to come. Since my bike is rather old (as are my knees) this was not easy and involved a couple of hours of careful improvisation, discussion and, eventually, the grinding of bolt heads! In the end, all was done and these guys may have saved my tour from an embarrassing demise. This also really helped lift my mood since it gave me more confidence that I may actually be able to make it through this thing. Eric was also a great source of local information and helped me decide that I really didn't need to go through Eugene after all. So I'm now "off route" in a town called Sweet Home, OR and plan to head east, for real, over the Cascade Range tomorrow (keep your fingers crossed for that new low gear!). After leaving the bike shop, I rode a few more miles to Lebanon, OR where I found a county RV and camping park right near a river and some railroad tracks. After a hot shower and a huge burrito for dinner I felt much better.

Last of the Oregon Coast

This is the coastal resort town of Pacific City, OR. Found a lovely county park campsite for only $5! (Plus a coin-operated shower costing 50 cents for every four minutes). The views from the beach are spectacular although the weather is variable. Was nice when I took this picture but is raining and windy this morning. Still, this is my last look at the Pacific Ocean during this trip. Tomorrow I start my eastward trek over the Coastal Range mountains and then onward through Oregon to Idaho. My legs still feel a bit wobbly but that's probably just because it's the start of this tour. Hoping to develop legs of steel within another few weeks. Until then, will persevere and walk the bike up the steep hills if needed. I do miss home but am also still exhilarated by finally being on this trip. In the end, I'm sure it will all be worthwhile.

The Fool's Journey Begins

It was misty and the wind was harsh as I dipped my rear wheel into the Pacific Ocean, just near Haystack Rock. Nevertheless, the trip has now officially begun! Rode through the light rain that characterizes this part of the north-west but was prepared with my rain suit and saddlebag covers. This morning it drizzled some more but it didn't slow me down or detract from the striking coastline scenery. Taking it easy during this early part of the trip so not doing too many miles each day. Also, got to tour the famous Tillamook Cheese factory and get samples! Hoping tonight's campground will be dryer. Not sure where I'll end up riding tomorrow but, so far, that's been half the fun! Anyway, the trip's now finally started and I'm having a great time!

Prologue

As many of you know, I've been wanting to do a coast-to-coast bicycle trip since I was about 14 years old and first became seriously interested in bicycling. It's number one on my very short list of "things to do before I die." Since I recently got laid off by my company and was given a severance package, I decided that now is the right time to grab the opportunity and do this trip. After practicing law for nearly 20 years, if I don't do this trip now, when will I ever?

I plan to pack up the bike and fly to Portland Oregon on June 5th where I will get to the west coast, do the traditional ceremony of dipping my rear wheel in the Pacific ocean, and then head out with my saddlebags, tent and sleeping bag in an effort to ride all the way to Florida. I'll be starting out along the northern tier states and heading for Chicago as a half-way point. From there, I'll head south-east and make my way down to Florida where I'll get to the east coast and dip my front wheel in the Atlantic ocean. I'm expecting this will all take around four months.

I am also using the trip as a fundraiser for the LiveStrong foundation (founded by seven-time Tour de France winner Lance Armstrong). Since I lost my Mom to cancer I've decided to support this organization which sponsors programs for cancer survivors. Please visit my sponsorship page and donate to the cause if you can. http://www.livestrong.org/grassroots2008/steveonhisbike

I'll post updates and photos to this blog along the way whenever I have access to a computer. Thanks for your interest and I look forward to start posting as soon as I hit the road!